This deck restoration project will show you how to replace your old deck with a composite deck by Ultradeck.
- Restoration of a 30 Year Old Deck
- Drainage and Airflow
- Removing Old Deck Boards
- Replace boards and joists
- Refasten deck boards
- Additional nailer joists
- Check refastened boards for level
- Correcting unlevel boards
- Leveling off unlevel boards
- Preserve old decking
- Laying first board
- Marking board placement
- Predrill holes
- Clear debris
- Fasten down board
- Repeat process
- Gapping Ultradeck
- Notching for existing railings
- Gapping around rail post
- Boards ran straight
- Boards ran angled
- End gapping
- Square outer edge
- Cut outer edge
- Seal board ends
- Fasten cladding
- Rail post cover
- Add top railing
- Top railing cover
- Fastening top rail and rail post
- Finish top rail
- Spacing and attaching railing boards
- Cap rails
- Enjoy your beautiful deck
- Safety glasses
- Drill with drivers and drill bits
- Tape Measure
- Square and level
- Circular saw
- Chalk Line
- Construction calculator
- Ultradeck Composite Deck Boards
- Ultradeck Composite Railing Systems
- Fasteners or Fastening System
- Wood Preservative
- Construction Adhesive
Restoration of a 30 Year Old DeckFor this project the home owners resurfaced a 30 year old deck, retaining as much of the original deck and railing structure as possible. The original deck surface is treated 2x4's. The following steps demonstrate techniques used, but because every project is unique the steps you use may vary.
Drainage and AirflowWith any outdoor decking drainage and air flow around the deck boards is critical. Because of this every other 2x4 was removed from the deck surface. This makes the spacing between the 2x4's approximately 9" on center to allow for sufficient air flow and drainage. The remaining 2x4's also offer an economical method for fastening the new Ultradeck boards with no fasteners showing. With composite decking there will be some expansion and contraction with temperature, Ultradeck must be fastened to a wooden structure per the installation instructions for your deck to perform properly.
Removing Old Deck BoardsRemoving the old deck boards: If the boards were originally put down with screws, use a powered screwdriver to back the screws out of the wood before removing the boards. If the screws have rusted so badly that they cannot be removed, or if the boards were originally nailed down, you can use a large wrecking bar to pry the boards up.
Replace boards and joistsBoards or joists that are not structurally sound need to be replaced and any additional joists or bracing should be added as needed. If there are any questions regarding your structure, check your local building codes.
Refasten deck boardsThe 2x4's remaining on the deck surface are re-fastened using #10 3" premium deck screws.
Additional nailer joistsWhere 2 boards meet end to end an additional nailer joist is added for additional support.
Check refastened boards for levelSo that your new deck surface lays flat and fastens securely the existing structure must be level with all boards lying flat.
Correcting unlevel boardsIf any boards have twisted, and fastening them down with screws doesn't make them lay flat, the raised edge must be shaved down or the boards will need to be replaced.
Leveling off unlevel boardsYou can sand the raised edge of the board using an abrasive sanding disk on a 4 1/2" angle grinder.
Preserve old deckingTo reduce the potential of decay and mildew, the old decking is covered with a wood preservative. For the wood preservative we used Woodlife Copper Coat and applied with a roller. Please follow the manufacturers instructions printed on the container for proper application.
Laying first boardIt is critical that the first board you lay is straight. Lay out and gapping of other deck boards is based off of this board. Check with a string line that the deck board is straight before fastening. We are fastening the deck boards from the underside through the original 2x4's. Note if access to the underside of the deck is not possible, Ultradeck Rustic and Natural series can be fastened through the top with color matched composite deck screws. Refer to the Ultradeck Product Installation Guide for information on various fastening options.
Marking board placementAfter the layout and design are determined, mark the edge where the Ultradeck board will be positioned on the substructure.
Predrill holesThe Ultradeck is moved to one side and 2 holes are predrilled with a 1/8" drill bit. (Because the deck boards are fastened from the underside the screws do not need to pass through the interior channels as described in the installation instructions.)
Clear debrisBrush away any debris so that the deck boards will pull in tight and flat when fastening.
Fasten down boardAfter the deck board has been put back in place fasten from the underside through the pre-drilled holes using 2" premium deck screws. Adjust the torque setting so you do not strip out the screws when tightening. For tight spaces, use a 90° drill/driver.
Repeat processAll remaining deck boards are fastened in the same manner as described in the previous instructions. Follow the Ultradeck product installation guide for proper side to side and end gapping. Side to side gapping needs to be a minimum of 3/16".
Gapping UltradeckA simple gapping jig is made by pushing a nail with a 3/16" diameter through a piece of rubber. Several jigs are then dropped along the length of the deck boards to insure consistent gapping.
Notching for existing railingsIf the deck has existing rail posts the deck boards must be notched to go around them. Mark the angle and depth of the notch that will need to be cut.
Gapping around rail postA slight gap around the upright accommodates the expansion and contraction of the composite material. The gap will be covered by the post sleeve covers as shown in step 27.
Boards ran straightThe first deck boards are positioned to continue the visual lines of the concrete block path. The outer edges of the walkway are accented with Gray Ultradeck Rustic Reversible deck boards.
Boards ran angledThe remaining deck boards followed the 30° angle that the garden area projected into the deck from both sides. Running the deck boards at an angle requires more work but gives your deck a professional look and a unique style.
End gappingEnd to end gapping is critical for proper expansion and contraction of composite material and is dependent on temperature at the time of installation. Refer to the End Gapping Chart that is in the Ultradeck product installation guide for proper gapping.
Square outer edgeTrim the outer ends of the deck boards after installation. Snap a chalk line to define a straight edge to follow for cutting. Be sure to use the proper chalk for your application. Usually light Violet, Blue or White is used for temporary marking.
Cut outer edgeCut off the excess material using a circular saw with a carbide blade.
Seal board endsWith the Ultradeck Boards cut at an angle, normal end caps will not fit. The ends are sealed using DAP Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant.
Fasten claddingTo cover the outer edges Cladding is cut down to cover the combined height of the deck boards and 2x4's. Cladding is attached using 1 5/8" color matched cladding screws. Holes are pre-drilled using a 1/8" drill bit no more than 16" apart.
Rail post coverOriginal 2x6 railing supports are covered with Hickory Brown 2x6 composite sleeves. Sleeves are cut an angle to match the angles of the uprights and slid into place.
Add top railingThe top of the railing is constructed from treated 2x6 construction lumber and will also be covered with Hickory Brown 2x6 composite sleeves. For strength the 2x6 sleeves and construction lumbers joints are offset.
Top railing coverBefore the 2x6 sleeves are slid into their final position a bead of caulk is run around the perimeter of the joist to seal it. We used Redwood Tan caulk which closely matches the Hickory Brown color.
Fastening top rail and rail postRailings are fastened using the angle brackets. To secure the brackets, 1-5/8" pan head screws are used.
Finish top railTo cover the ends, the treated 2x6 was set back into the sleeve. End plugs are made from a cut off piece of composite sleeve and attached in place with construction adhesive.
Spacing and attaching railing boardsThe railing deck boards are secured using the same brackets used for the top rail. Spacer blocks are used to keep spacing consistent between the boards as they are fastened. The railing is completed using Ultradeck Gray Rustic Reversible deck boards running horizontally.
Cap railsThe hollow profile ends are covered with color matched plugs.
Enjoy your beautiful deckWith all the hard work accomplished relax and enjoy your beautiful new deck.
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