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Deck Restoration Print
Overall Skill Level: Intermediate

This deck restoration project will show you how to replace your old deck with a composite deck by Ultradeck.
Steps
  1. Deck Restoration
    1. Restoration of a 30 Year Old Deck
    2. Drainage and Airflow
    3. Removing Old Deck Boards
    4. Replace boards and joists
    5. Refasten deck boards
    6. Additional nailer joists
    7. Check refastened boards for level
    8. Correcting unlevel boards
    9. Leveling off unlevel boards
    10. Preserve old decking
    11. Laying first board
    12. Marking board placement
    13. Predrill holes
    14. Clear debris
    15. Fasten down board
    16. Repeat process
    17. Gapping Ultradeck
    18. Notching for existing railings
    19. Gapping around rail post
    20. Boards ran straight
    21. Boards ran angled
    22. End gapping
    23. Square outer edge
    24. Cut outer edge
    25. Seal board ends
    26. Fasten cladding
    27. Rail post cover
    28. Add top railing
    29. Top railing cover
    30. Fastening top rail and rail post
    31. Finish top rail
    32. Spacing and attaching railing boards
    33. Cap rails
    34. Enjoy your beautiful deck
Tools
  • Safety glasses
  • Drill with drivers and drill bits
  • Tape Measure
  • Square and level
  • Circular saw
  • hacksaw
  • Chalk Line
  • Construction calculator
Materials
  • Ultradeck Composite Deck Boards
  • Ultradeck Composite Railing Systems
  • Fasteners or Fastening System
  • Wood Preservative
  • Construction Adhesive
Deck Restoration
Skill Level: Intermediate
  1. Restoration of a 30 Year Old Deck
    For this project the home owners resurfaced a 30 year old deck, retaining as much of the original deck and railing structure as possible. The original deck surface is treated 2x4's. The following steps demonstrate techniques used, but because every project is unique the steps you use may vary.
  2. Drainage and Airflow
    With any outdoor decking drainage and air flow around the deck boards is critical. Because of this every other 2x4 was removed from the deck surface. This makes the spacing between the 2x4's approximately 9" on center to allow for sufficient air flow and drainage. The remaining 2x4's also offer an economical method for fastening the new Ultradeck boards with no fasteners showing. With composite decking there will be some expansion and contraction with temperature, Ultradeck must be fastened to a wooden structure per the installation instructions for your deck to perform properly.
  3. Removing Old Deck Boards
    Removing the old deck boards: If the boards were originally put down with screws, use a powered screwdriver to back the screws out of the wood before removing the boards. If the screws have rusted so badly that they cannot be removed, or if the boards were originally nailed down, you can use a large wrecking bar to pry the boards up.
  4. Replace boards and joists
    Boards or joists that are not structurally sound need to be replaced and any additional joists or bracing should be added as needed. If there are any questions regarding your structure, check your local building codes.
  5. Refasten deck boards
    The 2x4's remaining on the deck surface are re-fastened using #10 3" premium deck screws.
  6. Additional nailer joists
    Where 2 boards meet end to end an additional nailer joist is added for additional support.
  7. Check refastened boards for level
    So that your new deck surface lays flat and fastens securely the existing structure must be level with all boards lying flat.
  8. Correcting unlevel boards
    If any boards have twisted, and fastening them down with screws doesn't make them lay flat, the raised edge must be shaved down or the boards will need to be replaced.
  9. Leveling off unlevel boards
    You can sand the raised edge of the board using an abrasive sanding disk on a 4 1/2" angle grinder.
  10. Preserve old decking
    To reduce the potential of decay and mildew, the old decking is covered with a wood preservative. For the wood preservative we used Woodlife Copper Coat and applied with a roller. Please follow the manufacturers instructions printed on the container for proper application.
  11. Laying first board
    It is critical that the first board you lay is straight. Lay out and gapping of other deck boards is based off of this board. Check with a string line that the deck board is straight before fastening. We are fastening the deck boards from the underside through the original 2x4's. Note if access to the underside of the deck is not possible, Ultradeck Rustic and Natural series can be fastened through the top with color matched composite deck screws. Refer to the Ultradeck Product Installation Guide for information on various fastening options.
  12. Marking board placement
    After the layout and design are determined, mark the edge where the Ultradeck board will be positioned on the substructure.
  13. Predrill holes
    The Ultradeck is moved to one side and 2 holes are predrilled with a 1/8" drill bit. (Because the deck boards are fastened from the underside the screws do not need to pass through the interior channels as described in the installation instructions.)
  14. Clear debris
    Brush away any debris so that the deck boards will pull in tight and flat when fastening.
  15. Fasten down board
    After the deck board has been put back in place fasten from the underside through the pre-drilled holes using 2" premium deck screws. Adjust the torque setting so you do not strip out the screws when tightening. For tight spaces, use a 90° drill/driver.
  16. Repeat process
    All remaining deck boards are fastened in the same manner as described in the previous instructions. Follow the Ultradeck product installation guide for proper side to side and end gapping. Side to side gapping needs to be a minimum of 3/16".
  17. Gapping Ultradeck
    A simple gapping jig is made by pushing a nail with a 3/16" diameter through a piece of rubber. Several jigs are then dropped along the length of the deck boards to insure consistent gapping.
  18. Notching for existing railings
    If the deck has existing rail posts the deck boards must be notched to go around them. Mark the angle and depth of the notch that will need to be cut.
  19. Gapping around rail post
    A slight gap around the upright accommodates the expansion and contraction of the composite material. The gap will be covered by the post sleeve covers as shown in step 27.
  20. Boards ran straight
    The first deck boards are positioned to continue the visual lines of the concrete block path. The outer edges of the walkway are accented with Gray Ultradeck Rustic Reversible deck boards.
  21. Boards ran angled
    The remaining deck boards followed the 30° angle that the garden area projected into the deck from both sides. Running the deck boards at an angle requires more work but gives your deck a professional look and a unique style.
  22. End gapping
    End to end gapping is critical for proper expansion and contraction of composite material and is dependent on temperature at the time of installation. Refer to the End Gapping Chart that is in the Ultradeck product installation guide for proper gapping.
  23. Square outer edge
    Trim the outer ends of the deck boards after installation. Snap a chalk line to define a straight edge to follow for cutting. Be sure to use the proper chalk for your application. Usually light Violet, Blue or White is used for temporary marking.
  24. Cut outer edge
    Cut off the excess material using a circular saw with a carbide blade.
  25. Seal board ends
    With the Ultradeck Boards cut at an angle, normal end caps will not fit. The ends are sealed using DAP Multi-Purpose Foam Sealant.
  26. Fasten cladding
    To cover the outer edges Cladding is cut down to cover the combined height of the deck boards and 2x4's. Cladding is attached using 1 5/8" color matched cladding screws. Holes are pre-drilled using a 1/8" drill bit no more than 16" apart.
  27. Rail post cover
    Original 2x6 railing supports are covered with Hickory Brown 2x6 composite sleeves. Sleeves are cut an angle to match the angles of the uprights and slid into place.
  28. Add top railing
    The top of the railing is constructed from treated 2x6 construction lumber and will also be covered with Hickory Brown 2x6 composite sleeves. For strength the 2x6 sleeves and construction lumbers joints are offset.
  29. Top railing cover
    Before the 2x6 sleeves are slid into their final position a bead of caulk is run around the perimeter of the joist to seal it. We used Redwood Tan caulk which closely matches the Hickory Brown color.
  30. Fastening top rail and rail post
    Railings are fastened using the angle brackets. To secure the brackets, 1-5/8" pan head screws are used.
  31. Finish top rail
    To cover the ends, the treated 2x6 was set back into the sleeve. End plugs are made from a cut off piece of composite sleeve and attached in place with construction adhesive.
  32. Spacing and attaching railing boards
    The railing deck boards are secured using the same brackets used for the top rail. Spacer blocks are used to keep spacing consistent between the boards as they are fastened. The railing is completed using Ultradeck Gray Rustic Reversible deck boards running horizontally.
  33. Cap rails
    The hollow profile ends are covered with color matched plugs.
  34. Enjoy your beautiful deck
    With all the hard work accomplished relax and enjoy your beautiful new deck.
Products, materials, techniques, tools, building codes and local regulations are subject to change; therefore, Midwest Manufacturing assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional before beginning any project.